Who Are the Sámi? Understanding Sápmi
The Sámi (pronounced "Sah-mee") are the Indigenous people of northern Europe, with a continuous presence in the Arctic that predates the formation of modern nation-states by thousands of years. Their traditional homeland, called Sápmi, stretches across northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Kola Peninsula in Russia.
Unlike many Indigenous peoples who were displaced by European colonization, the Sámi have always lived in what is now known as Scandinavia. They were there before the borders existed. Today, an estimated 80,000–100,000 Sámi people live across Sápmi, with approximately 20,000–40,000 in Sweden. Kiruna is located in the heart of Swedish Sápmi.
It is crucial to understand that Sámi culture is not a historical relic. It is a living, evolving culture. Sámi people today are reindeer herders, artists, politicians, teachers, engineers, and tour guides. They speak Sámi languages (several distinct languages, all endangered), wear traditional gákti on special occasions, and practice ancient traditions alongside modern life.
When you visit Kiruna, you are a guest in Sápmi. That mindset — guest, not consumer — is the foundation of respectful tourism.
The name "Lapp" – why it is not used
You may encounter the term "Lapp" or "Laplander" in older texts or sometimes in English translations. This term is considered outdated and, by many Sámi people, offensive. It has a derogatory history. Always use "Sámi" (the preferred term) or "Sámi people." The region is Sápmi, not "Lapland" (though "Lapland" is still widely used in tourism marketing – be aware of the distinction).
A Brief History: Colonization, Assimilation, and Resilience
To understand why respectful tourism matters, you need to understand what the Sámi have endured — and how they have resisted.
For centuries, the nation-states of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia pursued policies of assimilation aimed at erasing Sámi culture. Children were sent to boarding schools where speaking Sámi languages was forbidden. Traditional religious practices were suppressed. Land was taken for mining, forestry, and hydroelectric projects — often without Sámi consent. Reindeer herding routes were disrupted by fences, railways, and dams.
In Sweden, the worst period of assimilation was from the late 19th century until the 1970s. Sámi children were removed from their families and placed in "nomad schools" (nomadskolor) designed to teach them Swedish culture and language while erasing their own. Many Sámi today carry intergenerational trauma from this period.
Despite this, the Sámi culture survived. The Sámi political movement gained strength in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1993, the Swedish government formally apologized for the treatment of the Sámi. The Sámi Parliament in Sweden (Sametinget) was established as both a publicly elected body and a government agency, giving Sámi people a political voice.
But the struggle continues. Land rights, mining permits, wind farm developments, and climate change all threaten traditional Sámi livelihoods today. When you participate in a Sámi-led cultural experience, you are not just a tourist — you are supporting cultural survival.
Reindeer Herding: The Heart of Sámi Culture
For many Sámi, reindeer herding is not a job — it is an identity, a way of life that has shaped their relationship with the land for generations. Approximately 2,500–3,000 Sámi people in Sweden are actively involved in reindeer herding, but many more have family connections to herding.
Reindeer are semi-domesticated, meaning they are owned by herders but live freely in the mountains and forests for most of the year. Herding follows the natural seasonal migrations of the reindeer:
- Winter: Reindeer graze on lichen in the lowland forests. Herders gather the herds for counting and marking.
- Spring: The reindeer move to the mountains, where calving occurs.
- Summer: Reindeer graze in the high mountains. This is the traditional time for Sámi families to live in lávvu (tents) or cabins.
- Autumn: The herds move back to the forests. Round-ups and slaughter happen in late autumn.
As a visitor, you may have the opportunity to see reindeer up close, feed them, or learn about herding from Sámi guides. This is a wonderful experience — but only if done respectfully. The key is that the Sámi themselves should be telling the story, not non-Sámi interpreters.
When visiting reindeer, follow the guide's instructions carefully. Do not chase the animals. Do not make loud noises. If you are invited to feed reindeer, do so gently. Reindeer are not pets; they are semi-wild animals central to a traditional livelihood.
Joik and Storytelling: The Sámi Vocal Tradition
One of the most distinctive Sámi cultural expressions is joik (pronounced "yoik"). Joik is often described as a type of song, but that translation misses the depth. A joik is not a song about a person, place, or animal — a joik is that person, place, or animal. It evokes their essence, their spirit, their presence.
Traditional joik uses no instruments, only the human voice. The melodies can be haunting, rhythmic, or joyful. Some joiks are passed down through generations. New joiks are still created today.
For a period during the assimilation era, joik was forbidden in schools and public spaces. It was considered primitive or pagan by the Christian church and state authorities. But joik survived, and today it is celebrated as a vital part of Sámi culture. Contemporary Sámi artists like Mari Boine, Frode Fjellheim, and Maxida Märak have brought joik to international audiences, often blending it with jazz, rock, or electronic music.
As a visitor, you may experience joik during a Sámi-led cultural evening, around a campfire, or at a special event. Listen respectfully. Do not interrupt. If you are moved by the joik, it is appropriate to thank the performer afterward. Recording joik without permission is not acceptable — it is a personal, often sacred, expression.
Duodji: Sámi Handicraft – Art, Utility, and Identity
Duodji (pronounced "duo-dee") is the Sámi word for traditional handicraft. Duodji is not "craft" in the Western sense of decorative souvenirs. It is practical art, made for use: knives, cups, belts, bags, jewelry, and clothing, all made from natural materials like reindeer antler, birch wood, reindeer leather, wool, and tin thread.
Every piece of duodji is made by hand. The techniques are ancient, passed down through families. Traditionally, men were responsible for wood and antler work; women for textiles and leather. These roles have become more fluid today, but the respect for the craft remains.
Duodji is also a marker of Sámi identity. Wearing a gákti with proper silver jewelry and accessories (knife, belt, pouches) is a statement of pride and belonging.
When you buy duodji, you are buying a piece of living culture. But — and this is important — not everything sold as "Sámi handicraft" is authentic. Mass-produced imports from Asia are sometimes sold to tourists as "Sámi" items. Read the section on buying duodji below for guidance on ethical purchasing.
The Gákti: Traditional Sámi Clothing
The gákti (sometimes spelled "kolt" or "gapta" depending on the Sámi language) is the traditional Sámi costume. It is beautiful, colorful, and instantly recognizable — but it is not a "costume" for tourist photos. The gákti carries deep meaning.
Different Sámi regions have distinct gákti traditions, with different colors, patterns, and decorative elements. The gákti you see in Jukkasjärvi will be different from one in Jokkmokk or Kautokeino (Norway). Men's and women's gákti differ. The style of the gákti tells knowledgeable viewers where the wearer's family comes from and sometimes their marital status.
The gákti is worn for special occasions: weddings, confirmations, Sámi National Day (February 6), reindeer round-ups, and cultural events. It is also worn with pride by Sámi people in everyday life, though less commonly.
Never wear a gákti as a "costume"
Some tourist operations have, in the past, offered visitors the chance to "dress like a Sámi" for photos. This is deeply offensive. The gákti is not a costume. It is a marker of identity, heritage, and belonging. Wearing it as a tourist prop trivializes that identity. Do not do it. Do not participate in any tour that offers this.
Ethical Tourism: Red Flags and Green Flags
How do you tell the difference between a respectful, Sámi-led experience and a cultural tourism trap? Here is a practical checklist.
| Green Flag (Ethical) | Red Flag (Avoid) |
|---|---|
| Sámi-owned and Sámi-led – The experience is created and led by Sámi people. | Non-Sámi operator offering "Sámi experiences" without Sámi guides. |
| Cultural context – The guide explains Sámi history, struggles, and contemporary life. | Only "reindeer selfies" and photo opportunities with no cultural education. |
| Small groups – Respectful, intimate experiences rather than large bus tours. | Loud, rushed, high-volume "reindeer encounters" with stressed animals. |
| Ask before photos – The guide sets clear photography rules. | Encouraging intrusive photography, especially of private moments. |
| Duodji for sale – Authentic handicraft with clear provenance. | Mass-produced "Sámi-style" souvenirs made in Asia. |
| Fair pricing – You pay a fair price for a meaningful experience. | "Free" experiences that are actually sales pitches. |
Do not be afraid to ask questions before booking. A respectful operator will be happy to tell you about their Sámi ownership, guiding practices, and ethical policies. If they are evasive, choose a different experience.
Sámi-Led Tours Near Kiruna: Where to Go
The Kiruna region has several excellent, ethical Sámi-led experiences. These are the ones I recommend.
Nutti Sámi Siida (Jukkasjärvi)
Located just outside Jukkasjärvi, near Icehotel, Nutti Sámi Siida is a family-run Sámi experience center. It is Sámi-owned and Sámi-led. You can visit reindeer, learn about herding, hear joik, and eat Sámi food around a fire in a lávvu (traditional Sámi tent). Nutti is widely considered the gold standard for ethical Sámi tourism in the region.
Rávttas (near Kiruna)
Rávttas is a Sámi reindeer herding family that offers small-group experiences. You learn about the seasonal reindeer migration, try lasso throwing (under supervision), and hear personal stories of Sámi life. Advance booking is essential.
Sámi cultural evenings at ICEHOTEL
Icehotel sometimes hosts Sámi-led cultural evenings, including storytelling, joik, and traditional food. These are generally well-run and respectful, but verify that the evening is actually led by Sámi guides (most are).
What about the Sámi Parliament (Sametinget)?
The Sámi Parliament in Kiruna is not a tourist attraction. It is a working government building. You can visit the exterior and the small information area, but do not treat it as a "sight." It is where Sámi political work happens.
Photography Ethics: Always Ask
This is the single most common ethical mistake tourists make. Never photograph Sámi people, their homes, their reindeer, or their ceremonies without explicit permission.
It is simple: ask first. In English or Swedish, say, "May I take your photo?" (Får jag ta en bild på dig?). If the person says yes, take your photo and then thank them. If they say no, respect that. No argument, no "just one quick photo." Put your camera or phone down.
Why is this so important? Because Sámi people are not exhibits in an open-air museum. They are human beings going about their lives. Imagine a stranger pointing a camera at you while you are working or eating dinner. That is how it feels.
This rule applies doubly to children. Never photograph Sámi children without parental permission. Never photograph inside a lávvu or Sámi home unless invited.
The only exception is large public events like Sámi National Day celebrations (February 6), where photography is generally accepted. Even then, use common sense. Do not shove a camera in someone's face.
What to Avoid: Cultural Tourism Traps
Here is a list of tourism practices to avoid — and why they are problematic.
- "Sámi villages" run by non-Sámi companies: If the owners and guides are not Sámi, you are likely getting a watered-down, stereotyped, or even offensive version of Sámi culture.
- "Dress like a Sámi" photo ops: As mentioned above, the gákti is not a costume. Avoid any operation that offers this.
- Reindeer "parks" without cultural context: Feeding reindeer can be fine — but if there is no Sámi guide explaining herding, history, and culture, it is just a petting zoo. That is not a cultural experience.
- Massive bus tours to reindeer fences: Some tour operators bring large groups to roadside reindeer enclosures for quick photos. The reindeer are stressed, the experience is shallow, and the Sámi are often not involved. Avoid.
- Buying fake duodji: If the price seems too good to be true for a "reindeer antler knife," it is probably mass-produced in Asia. Authentic duodji takes hours or days to make and is priced accordingly.
Choosing ethical operators sometimes costs more and requires more planning. That is the price of respect. Pay it.
Buying Duodji: How to Support Sámi Artists
Buying authentic duodji is one of the best ways to support Sámi culture financially. Your purchase goes directly to Sámi artists and their families. Here is how to do it right.
What to look for
- Material: Authentic duodji uses reindeer antler, birch wood, reindeer leather, wool, and tin thread. No plastic, no cheap metals.
- Markings: Many Sámi duodji makers mark their work. Look for names, stamps, or certificates of authenticity.
- Seller: Buy directly from the artist, from Sámi-led visitor centers (like Nutti Sámi Siida), or from reputable shops that can tell you the maker's name. Avoid souvenir shops with generic "Arctic" items.
What authentic duodji might cost
- Sámi knife (with reindeer antler handle): 800–3000 SEK
- Belt with tin thread embroidery: 1500–5000 SEK
- Reindeer leather pouch or bag: 500–2000 SEK
- Handmade guksi (wooden cup): 400–1500 SEK
If you see a "Sámi knife" for 200 SEK, it is not authentic. Do not buy it. You are not getting a deal — you are getting a fake, and you are not supporting Sámi artists.
Even if you cannot afford duodji, you can still support Sámi culture by choosing Sámi-led tours, eating at Sámi-owned restaurants (when available), and sharing ethical tourism information with other travelers.
The Sámi Languages: Endangered and Resilient
Many visitors are surprised to learn that there is no single "Sámi language." There are nine living Sámi languages, several of which are critically endangered. In Sweden, the most widely spoken Sámi languages are North Sámi (the largest, with about 25,000 speakers across all countries), Lule Sámi (around 2,000 speakers), and South Sámi (around 600 speakers). Other Sámi languages include Ume Sámi, Pite Sámi, and Skolt Sámi.
Sámi languages are related to Finnish and Estonian, not to Swedish or Norwegian. They are part of the Finno-Ugric language family. This means they are fundamentally different from the Scandinavian languages — different grammar, different vocabulary, different sounds.
During the assimilation era, Sámi children were forbidden to speak their languages in school. As a result, many Sámi today do not speak the language of their grandparents. But there are strong revitalization efforts: Sámi language immersion schools, Sámi media (including news in North Sámi on SVT), and Sámi literature.
As a visitor, you are not expected to speak Sámi. But you can show respect by learning a few words:
- Bures – Hello (North Sámi)
- Giitu – Thank you (North Sámi)
- Deerádit – Goodbye (North Sámi)
Modern Sámi Life: Beyond Stereotypes
It would be a mistake to think of Sámi culture as frozen in time, existing only in lávvu tents with reindeer. Modern Sámi life is rich and diverse.
Sámi people are politicians, lawyers, doctors, engineers, teachers, artists, musicians, writers, and filmmakers. Amanda Kernell's films (Sami Blood, Charter) have won international awards. Mari Boine is a globally renowned musician. Maxida Märak is a pop artist and activist. Sámi literature has a growing readership.
Many Sámi live in cities (Stockholm, Oslo, Umeå, Luleå) while maintaining strong connections to their home communities. Others live in small villages and continue traditional livelihoods like reindeer herding, fishing, or duodji. Some do both: a job in town during the week, reindeer work on weekends.
When you visit Kiruna, you will encounter Sámi people in all walks of life — at the supermarket, at the hotel reception, at the gas station. They are not always wearing gákti. Treat them with the same respect you would anyone else.
Sámi Rights and the Sámi Parliament
Sámi people are Indigenous under international law, with special rights to land, water, and traditional livelihoods (reindeer herding, fishing, hunting). These rights are recognized by the Swedish government, though the implementation is often contested.
The Sámi Parliament in Sweden (Sametinget) is located in Kiruna. It is both a publicly elected body (with Sámi voters) and a government agency. The building is modern and distinctive — you have probably seen it from the road into Kiruna. You can visit the small public information area, but remember that this is a working parliament, not a tourist attraction.
Key issues in Sámi rights today include:
- Land rights: Who has the right to decide how land is used — Sámi reindeer herders or mining companies, wind power developers, and forestry?
- Free, prior, and informed consent (FPIC): Should the Swedish government be required to get Sámi consent before approving projects on traditional Sámi lands?
- Language revitalization: How to strengthen Sámi languages for future generations.
- Climate change: Warmer winters mean rain-on-snow events, which freeze the lichen and starve reindeer. This threatens the entire reindeer herding livelihood.
As a visitor, you do not need to become an expert on these complex issues. But you should be aware of them. When you participate in Sámi-led cultural experiences, you are supporting a people who are fighting for cultural survival.
Visiting with Children: Teaching Respect
Traveling with children to Sápmi is a wonderful opportunity to teach them about Indigenous cultures, respect, and ethical tourism. Here is how to prepare.
- Teach before you go: Read age-appropriate books about the Sámi. Explain that this is the homeland of Indigenous people, just like Native American lands in North America or Aboriginal lands in Australia.
- Set photography rules: Children love taking photos. Explain that they must ask permission before taking pictures of people.
- Quiet around reindeer: Teach children not to chase or shout at reindeer. Animals are not toys.
- Do not treat the gákti as a costume: If your child sees someone wearing gákti, explain that this is special clothing with deep meaning, like a wedding dress or a military uniform. Not for dress-up.
- Choose family-friendly Sámi experiences: Nutti Sámi Siida is very welcoming to well-behaved children. They have reindeer feeding, short storytelling, and space to move around.
Children naturally ask blunt questions ("Why does he wear that?" "Why do they eat reindeer?"). That is fine. Do not shush them. The Sámi guides we work with are used to children's questions and answer them warmly. The key is to model respectful listening.
Final Reflections: Tourism as Solidarity
Ethical tourism to Sápmi is not about guilt. It is not about "doing tourism correctly" to avoid criticism. It is about solidarity — recognizing that the choices you make with your time and money have real effects on real people.
When you choose a Sámi-led reindeer experience over a non-Sámi "reindeer park," you are supporting Sámi livelihoods. When you buy authentic duodji directly from a maker, you are supporting an artist and their family. When you ask permission before taking a photo, you are treating a person as a person, not a prop.
These choices are small. But collectively, they shape the tourism industry. When tourists consistently choose ethical operators, the market shifts. Unethical operators lose business. That is how change happens.
So I invite you to experience Sámi culture. It is beautiful, resilient, and deeply connected to the Arctic land you came to see. Just do it with open eyes, an open heart, and a deep respect for the people who have called this land home for thousands of years.
Ready to experience Sámi culture respectfully?
We partner with Sámi-led operators in the Kiruna region, including Nutti Sámi Siida and Rávttas. These experiences sell out quickly, especially in winter and summer peak seasons. Book early to secure your place.
Related Travel Guides
- Kiruna Sámi Reindeer Experiences
- Sámi Culture in Swedish Lapland
- Jukkasjärvi & Sámi Culture Guide
- Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Kiruna
Sources & Further Reading
For deeper understanding of Sámi culture, history, and contemporary issues, I recommend these resources.
FAQ: Respectful Sámi Culture Experiences
Is it okay to take photos of Sámi people?
Only with explicit permission. Always ask first. If the person says no, respect that. This applies especially to close-up portraits, children, and private moments.
Can I wear Sámi clothing (gákti) as a tourist?
No. The gákti is traditional clothing with deep cultural meaning, not a costume. Do not wear it unless you are Sámi or have been specifically gifted a gákti by a Sámi family (which is extremely rare). Avoid any tour that offers "dress like a Sámi" photo opportunities.
What is the most ethical Sámi experience near Kiruna?
Nutti Sámi Siida in Jukkasjärvi is widely considered the gold standard. It is Sámi-owned, Sámi-led, and focuses on cultural education, not just photo opportunities.
Is it respectful to eat reindeer meat?
Yes, if the reindeer is from Sámi herders. Eating reindeer meat is part of Sámi culture and supports the Sámi economy. Many Sámi-led experiences include a meal of reindeer (often as suovas – smoked reindeer). The issue is not eating reindeer – it is how the reindeer are treated and who benefits financially.
How do I tell if a "Sámi" souvenir is authentic?
Authentic duodji uses natural materials (reindeer antler, birch, reindeer leather, tin thread). It is handmade, not mass-produced. Ask the seller who made it. If they cannot give you a name, it is probably fake. Expect to pay fair prices (400 SEK for a small item, 2000+ SEK for a knife or belt).
What is the Sámi Parliament building in Kiruna?
It is the seat of the Sámi Parliament in Sweden – a working government building where Sámi political decisions are made. You can see the exterior and a small public information area, but it is not a tourist attraction. Be respectful if you visit.
Can I visit a reindeer herding family?
Yes, through organized Sámi-led experiences like Nutti Sámi Siida or Rávttas. Do not approach private homes or herding areas uninvited. Herding families are working – they are not a tourist attraction.
What is joik and why is it important?
Joik is the traditional Sámi vocal tradition. It is not a song about something – it is the essence of something. Joik was suppressed during the assimilation era and is now celebrated as a vital part of Sámi cultural revitalization. Listening to joik respectfully is a wonderful way to connect with Sámi culture.
Is it okay to call Sápmi "Lapland"?
Many tourists and tourism companies still use "Lapland" as a geographic term, and it is not inherently offensive. However, be aware that "Lapland" was a name imposed by outsiders. "Sápmi" is the Sámi name for their homeland. Using "Sápmi" when appropriate shows awareness and respect.
How can I support Sámi culture if I cannot take a tour?
Read Sámi authors (Mikael Niemi, Ann-Helén Laestadius). Watch Sámi films (Sami Blood, Let the River Flow). Listen to Sámi musicians (Mari Boine, Maxida Märak). Follow Sámi social media accounts. Share this guide. Ethical engagement is not limited to in-person tours.